I've sent you a email, I hope you will receive it.

Salut biloud75,

I've always replied to your emails.
Your mail from 18.12.2015, my reply send 21.12.2015
Your mail from 14.01.2016, my reply send 17.01.2016

Today I'll send you a replay to your mail from today.
Maybe something is wrong with your mail account. Spam folder??

Mail is sent.

Regards,
Sebastian

Je suis avec mes pensées avec vous.
Pas de pouvoir de la terreur et du radicalisme.

This isn't the official TwinAir number. This number is from BIHR.
http://www.bihr.eu/en/product/0/113314
I have to ask them (BIHR Team) for the real TwinAir number.

J'ai reçu le filtre à air Twin Air pour TW 200 et il s'adapte sans problème sur ma type 2. Pour à peine plus cher qu'un filtre standard, comparé au k&n, je vais bien voir si elle respire mieux.

Part number of this filter?
Référence de filtres?

TW200 official 16 HP -> compression 9,5:1
-->> compression important factor


Change of the performance (theoretical), carb is a important factor
Changement dans la performance (théorique), Carburateur est un facteur important
org. -->> 140 cc (60 mm piston)
11,8 HP/CV -->> 13,1 HP/CV
9,7 Nm -->> 10,7 Nm

Too said, I don't know the compression ratio of the 60 mm piston.
Malheureusement, je ne connais pas la compression du piston d'origine.
Additionally If the compression changes from 10:1 to 11:1.
En outre, si la compression de 10:1 changements à 11:1.
11,8 HP/CV -->> 14,3 HP/CV
9,7 Nm -->> 11,7 Nm

A replacement air filter from TwinAir doesn't exist. I've checked the homepage.
Un filtre de TwinAir à air de remplacement ne existe pas. Je l'ai vérifié la page d'accueil.
http://www.twinair.com/worldwide/images/stories/Twin_Air_Application_Guide.pdf

Racing spark plug cable?
Non sense.

GPR Exhaust
-->> Too expensive.
-->> trop cher.

Mehr details, bitte.
More details, please.
Plus de détails, se il vous plaît.

légal???
NO!!!!!!!

You don't need a complete engine!
Vous ne devez pas un moteur complet.

You'll need these parts:
Vous aurez besoin de ces pièces:
- 200 cc crankshaft / vilebrequin
- 200 cc cylinder / cylindre
- 200 cc piston
- 200/225 cc cylinder head / culasse de cylindre

It's easier to get the parts as a complete engine.
Il est plus facile d'acheter les pièces comme un moteur complet.

-> vitesse Max?
Top speed depends from your chain kit.
La vitesse dépend de votre kit chaîne.
-->> 110 km/h, no problem
-->> 130 km/h, possible

Hi at all,

Friday and Saturday I've made some test rides on a parking place to find a good carb setup.
The bike is running well.
My air/fuel ratio meter and the rpm display is a huge help to make the adjustments.

The setup is good (not perfect) for low and mid rpm, just over 7,000-8,000 rpm it not so good.

You can not imagine, what for a power the engine have.
You know, to make a wheelie in the 1st gear is no problem with the 125 cc and 200 cc engine. And maybe it's possible to make wheelie in the 2nd gear, with a TW200 and a short transmission.
But......
With this engine it's no problem to lift the front wheel in the 3rd gear!!!!!!!
-> Not just for some meters, I am sure it was minimum 15 meters.


I hope, that I can visit in the next week a small performance tuner shop to make a dyno run (performance chart).

Best regards,
Sebastian

Hi @all,

I have made a decision.
I've canceled for now the EFI project.


In the last weeks and months I've worked on many weekends on the adjustment of the EFI.
But I don't have good results.
- no stable idle rpm
- if I turn the throttle and go back to idle position, the engine doesn't go back to the programed idle rpm
-> no working "engine brake" (I hope this 1:1 translation is correct)

Last Saturday I've switched back to my good old Mikuni 28 mm flatside carb (VM28-418) from my TW230 SM.
The engine has started after some hours of working.

In the last days I've worked a bit on the carb setup.
I have 2 needles to work with it.
With the first one the engine runs too rich at 50-75% throttle opening and with the other one the engine is running too lean at the same throttle opening.
I've ordered a new needle and I hope that I get it tomorrow.

I hope that I am able to find a nearly well working setup, because I want to ride on Sunday at the SOC (Saxony Offroad Cup) -> a 3h hard enduro race.


After some tests I have to say, the 250 cc engine is running really well. I think it would be better with a bigger carb, but at the moment I don't have a carb with fits without modifications (plug'n'play).


Something very important, the EFI project haven't ended, it's just deferred to an other time.
Later I want to use the MP25 management unit by KMS.
The only problem, it's very expensive (only for the control unit: 650 EUR without VAT).

Traduction par google

Bonjour à tous,

l'an dernier que j'ai vu sur un site allemand une base de données de vélo, je crois que c'était le forum Cagiva Elefant.
Je veux commencer quelque chose de comparable à notre aimé TW.

Ces faits seront inclus:
- Le nombre de VIN / cadre
- cc
- L'année de l'année build / modèle (s'il est connu)
- Date de première immatriculation
- Où acheté (revendeur)
- Propriétaire d'extraits (seulement le prénom ou les initiales)
- Propriétaire d'extraits de .... jusqu'à ....
- Propriétaire d'extraits acheté avec un certain kilométrage
- Propriétaire d'extraits situé .... (ville, pays)
- Propriétaire actuel (seulement le prénom ou les initiales)
- Propriétaire actuel depuis ....
- Propriétaire actuel a acheté avec un certain kilométrage
- Propriétaire actuel situé .... (ville, pays)
- Le statut actuel (en cours d'utilisation, vendu, démonté, "Rest In Pieces")

Je ne veux pas un champ de texte comme «modifications».
Parce que je ne veux pas, que le propriétaire actuel avoir des problèmes avec la police -> par ex. plus cc.

Plus d'idées?

Vive,
Sebastian

Hello at all,

last year I've seen on a German website a bike database, I think it was the Cagiva Elefant forum.
I want to start something comparable for our loved TW.

These facts will be included:
- VIN/frame number
- cc
- year of build/model year (if known)
- date of first registration
- where bought (dealer)
- previews owner (only first name or initial letters)
- previews owner from .... till ....
- previews owner bought with mileage
- previews owner located .... (city, country)
- current owner (only first name or initial letters)
- current owner since ....
- current owner bought with mileage
- current owner located .... (city, country)
- current status (in use, sold, disassembled, "Rest In Pieces")

I don't want to a text field like "modifications".
Because I don't want, that the current owner will get problems with the police -> for ex. more cc.

More ideas?

Cheers,
Sebastian

Here are some pictures of the last week.
I am still waiting for my frame, so I've used an other TW for some tests.




The TW is small and there are not much space. My target was to put the battery and the control unit into the battery box. It was very hard to find a small maintenance free battery with enough "cold start power". I have to use a Lithium battery, to solve the problem.
The battery and the control unit fits now perfect into the battery box. A positive side effect, the lithium battery is 2kg lighter as the std. battery (0,5kg instead of 2,5kg).

I had to strip and tape nearly the complete wiring. It was important to bend the wiring loom and than to tape it to make it fit under the side cover.

I've received from IgniTech a new connector like the original CDI-connector.
Now I can use the connector for the following signals:
- power supply for the ignition (new small CDI) - engine start/stop switch
- pick up signal for the ignition (and ground for the pick up coil)
- "ignition spark" to the ignition coil

The control unit needs the engine temperature to calculate the fitting fuel quantity. The sensor has to be placed on the wind protected position. I will use the oil pressure control screw.

The control unit also needs a power on signal (key switch on) for the complete system.
The TW 125 does have a carb heater. I've removed the cable to the heater and the temperature switch. And now I have free "switched plus" (key switch on) connector for the control unit.




In comparison a original wiring loom and the reduced version to the absolute minimum (with only one extra, the e-start)




The new battery is 2 cm smaller as the original battery. It could be, that the fuel pump fits under the seat. A water level was a good help.
I know, there is no space between the pump and the intake. But I will modify the new air box like the old one (third picture). Than there should be enough room for the pump and the fuel lines.




It's not easy to estimate how much room I have between the seat and the air box. To solve this problem I've made a cast/off-print of the seat with many, many, many and many more stripes of paper and thinned glue.




ronnydog has also modified his 5 speed output shaft, to use all 6 gears. But I haven't used a spacer plate, I've grind in a gap and putted in a circlip. And a second gap (like the 6 speed shaft) to lock the 2 gears.


Yesterday I had some time. I've started to assemble the engine (should be 6 pm). I've added piece by piece and than I was surprised, the engine is nearly finished and it's close to 2:30 am.
I had to stop for only one reason, I haven't had a list with the needed screws.

Mid Nov. I've ordered 2 225 crank shafts. I always though, that the crank shafts are identical, but I haven't checked it.
Surprise, surprise, the sprockets for the timing chain are different. The first one does have the same the sprocket like the TW and the second one does have a sprocket for the SC-type-chain.

No question, I've used the crank with the SC-type-sprocket.




The cylinder head before and after the fitting to the 74mm piston.
This is the only modification for this cylinder head. A second head will get the full performance mod.
You can see on the last picture, that I've changed the Aluminum sleeve to a ball bearing. I've made this mod on all of my and customer engines.




I've turned the piston to TDC. You can see, there is a step from cylinder to piston.
This step + a 1mm adapter plate = ~2mm space for a higher stroke
So, there should be enough room for the 62mm stroke crank shaft (+4mm).
-> Maybe I will use a second cylinder foot gasket.




The complete system with installed SC-type-timing chain. I've also mounted a support for the timing chain. The timing chain can not fall down, if I would remove the cylinder head.




The clutch looks absolutely fantastic, like a real racing bike.
Many thanks to my German friend raptor (he has made the first test with an old IT175 clutch).
I've searched a bit in my storage and I've found the push rod of an old DT125. This rod is round about 5mm longer as the original one and it fits perfect.