Here are some pictures of the last week.
I am still waiting for my frame, so I've used an other TW for some tests.
The TW is small and there are not much space. My target was to put the battery and the control unit into the battery box. It was very hard to find a small maintenance free battery with enough "cold start power". I have to use a Lithium battery, to solve the problem.
The battery and the control unit fits now perfect into the battery box. A positive side effect, the lithium battery is 2kg lighter as the std. battery (0,5kg instead of 2,5kg).
I had to strip and tape nearly the complete wiring. It was important to bend the wiring loom and than to tape it to make it fit under the side cover.
I've received from IgniTech a new connector like the original CDI-connector.
Now I can use the connector for the following signals:
- power supply for the ignition (new small CDI) - engine start/stop switch
- pick up signal for the ignition (and ground for the pick up coil)
- "ignition spark" to the ignition coil
The control unit needs the engine temperature to calculate the fitting fuel quantity. The sensor has to be placed on the wind protected position. I will use the oil pressure control screw.
The control unit also needs a power on signal (key switch on) for the complete system.
The TW 125 does have a carb heater. I've removed the cable to the heater and the temperature switch. And now I have free "switched plus" (key switch on) connector for the control unit.
In comparison a original wiring loom and the reduced version to the absolute minimum (with only one extra, the e-start)
The new battery is 2 cm smaller as the original battery. It could be, that the fuel pump fits under the seat. A water level was a good help.
I know, there is no space between the pump and the intake. But I will modify the new air box like the old one (third picture). Than there should be enough room for the pump and the fuel lines.
It's not easy to estimate how much room I have between the seat and the air box. To solve this problem I've made a cast/off-print of the seat with many, many, many and many more stripes of paper and thinned glue.
ronnydog has also modified his 5 speed output shaft, to use all 6 gears. But I haven't used a spacer plate, I've grind in a gap and putted in a circlip. And a second gap (like the 6 speed shaft) to lock the 2 gears.
Yesterday I had some time. I've started to assemble the engine (should be 6 pm). I've added piece by piece and than I was surprised, the engine is nearly finished and it's close to 2:30 am.
I had to stop for only one reason, I haven't had a list with the needed screws.
Mid Nov. I've ordered 2 225 crank shafts. I always though, that the crank shafts are identical, but I haven't checked it.
Surprise, surprise, the sprockets for the timing chain are different. The first one does have the same the sprocket like the TW and the second one does have a sprocket for the SC-type-chain.
No question, I've used the crank with the SC-type-sprocket.
The cylinder head before and after the fitting to the 74mm piston.
This is the only modification for this cylinder head. A second head will get the full performance mod.
You can see on the last picture, that I've changed the Aluminum sleeve to a ball bearing. I've made this mod on all of my and customer engines.
I've turned the piston to TDC. You can see, there is a step from cylinder to piston.
This step + a 1mm adapter plate = ~2mm space for a higher stroke
So, there should be enough room for the 62mm stroke crank shaft (+4mm).
-> Maybe I will use a second cylinder foot gasket.
The complete system with installed SC-type-timing chain. I've also mounted a support for the timing chain. The timing chain can not fall down, if I would remove the cylinder head.
The clutch looks absolutely fantastic, like a real racing bike.
Many thanks to my German friend raptor (he has made the first test with an old IT175 clutch).
I've searched a bit in my storage and I've found the push rod of an old DT125. This rod is round about 5mm longer as the original one and it fits perfect.
